A Stockholm transplant to Paris, art director, designer and publisher Tony Cederteg shares his tips on what to do on a weekend in the French capital.
For the archetypal Parisian market, go to the northern outskirts of Le Périphérique by the Porte de Clignancourt station. Venture through endless flea market stands before finding yourself at Paul Bert Serpette in Saint-Ouen—the world’s largest antique market. Losing yourself in the countless alleyways allows you to encounter everything from beautiful old artifacts over rare and desirable furniture and clothing to astounding fountains. It’s open Friday through Monday, and independent dealers and curators often host special pop-ups where you can find a great bargain or two.
After taking the metro to Saint-Germain-des-Prés, I walk toward the Seine and visit Nakaniwa, a small Japanese boutique carrying loads of artisanal treasures. I bought a wooden tray the last time I was there. Whilst there, I was served three kinds of tea at different temperatures while waiting for them to carefully pack it up. From Nakaniwa, I go for a matinée at either Action Christine or La Filmothèque du Quartier Latin; two amazing cinemas that play older movies and directors’ retrospectives in version originale. Afterward, I head to Café de Flore for their chocolat chaud or Le Relais de l’Entrecôte Saint-Germain for steak.
Parisians devour books—from literary works to poetry to art books, so there’s an abundance of beautiful bookshops around the city. Among my favorites for art and photography are the inspirational Comptoir de l’Image and Librarie Yvon Lambert in Le Marais along with the bookshop at LE BAL exhibition space at Place de Clichy and Le Monte en l’Air in Ménilmontant.
I discovered this vibrant neighborhood by chance as it was where my first atelier in Paris was located. The birthplace of Édith Piaf and the setting for a few Jacques Becker films, Belleville has yet to succumb to the inevitable effects of gentrification. Walk along the junction separating the 10th, 19th, 20th and 11th arrondissements to Le Baratin for Basque cooking and vins naturels. Take a shortcut to Parc des Buttes-Chaumont to lie down and do nothing for the rest of the day.
À La Maison
Some days there’s really no point in going any farther than a few blocks from your house. Luckily, where I live—in the 10th arrondissement—there’s lots of energy, contradictions and charm. Across the street from my house, next to numerous barbershops, is Hôtel Grand Amour and their newly opened bar, Petite Amour. I spend most of my late evenings there with friends and colleagues. It’s not unusual for me to have a Kurdish kebab at Urfa Dürüm and dinner and wine at Vivant Cave on the same night.
Tony Cederteg is an independent art director, designer and publisher originally from Stockholm, Sweden. He works within art, fashion and photography and runs Libraryman, an independent publisher of contemporary photography.
This story is part of a weekend-themed series in celebration of Kinfolk Issue 23: The Weekend Special.